Tag: West Africa

Meet the Elephant’s Bikers, Côte d’Ivoire’s version of Hells Angels

Decked out in leather gear, their powerful Harley-Davidsons girded in sleek chrome, the Elephant’s Bikers make an almost surreal sight in the poor and sometimes barren Côte d’Ivoire villages they visit.

As the west African country’s “Easy Rider” team roars into communities where residents are lucky to own a rundown moped, ecstatic crowds typically form to greet them on their journey from the economic capital Abidjan to the industrial port of San Pedro almost 400 kilometres to the west.

Wherever the club makes a pit-stop for supplies, men, women and children flock around the 30 or so bikes and their owners. Young drink-sellers use ageing cellphones to snap pictures of the Harleys and grinning villagers chat to the bikers.

Members of the Elephant's Bikers club ride near San-Pedro. (Pic: AFP)
Members of the Elephant’s Bikers club ride near San Pedro. (Pic: AFP)

“We’re sharing a pleasure, a dream. People identify with that. They see that it’s accessible, it’s not just on television,” says one of the bikers, Landry Ouegnin.

“Just because we live in an underdeveloped country doesn’t mean we can’t share this kind of thing,” adds the 34-year-old business manager, who helps run the club of inveterate riders.

The Elephant’s Bikers, created 10 years ago to mark the centenary of legendary American motorcycle maker Harley-Davidson, has about 50 members – mostly native Ivorians, but also expatriates, some of whom have become citizens of Côte d’Ivoire.

The whole gang displays the distinctive signs of a pack like the Hells Angels – bandanas, omnipresent skulls and crossbones, leather jackets with the Harley logo or that of their club, an elephant wearing cowboy boots.

The Elephant's Bikers club, an Ivorian version of Hells Angels, was created ten years ago to commemorate Harley Davidson's centenary. (Pic: AFP)
The Elephant’s Bikers club, an Ivorian version of Hells Angels, was created ten years ago to commemorate Harley Davidson’s centenary. (Pic: AFP)

For Jackie Thelen, who leads the club and came from France to take on Ivorian nationality, the regalia is “a disguise” that unites members with “a spirit of brotherhood” like in other such groups scattered around the world.

“You’ll often see a big boss show up with ripped jeans, a flashy belt and skulls even though he’s in charge of a highly rated company. That’s the paradox among Harley-Davidson lovers,” says Thelen (52), who runs a business himself and sports a ring in his left ear.

Benevolent bikers
In Côte d’Ivoire, the bikers are anything but bad boys, in contrast to the reputation of notorious counterparts like the Hells Angels. And their rides are expensive. Including the cost of transport and import duty, the cheapest bike in the club cost four million CFA francs ($8 200), while the most pricey cost 25-million ($52 000).

Such sums are way above the means of most villagers along the bikers’ route, but they sometimes help the people they meet by making donations to schools, medical dispensaries or entire villages.

While some members of the club are not wealthy and assembled their own bikes, most are well off and a few are very rich.

A son of late president Henri Konan Bedie is a member, together with an adviser to a cabinet minister. To protect such prominent figures, paramilitary police follow the pack in a four-by-four truck and occasionally direct traffic.

Once they reach San Pedro, after a trek that began in the rain and has been strewn with potholes, the bikers are all smiles.

“That was wonderful!” shouts Gerard Lokossou (41) at the end of his first outing with the club.

A marketing director of 41 who has ridden with a biker group in the US state of New Jersey, Lokossou says he experienced the same joy being part of the Ivorian horde.

“It gave me a chance to discover a part of the country that I had never seen from that point of view,” he says, as wide-eyed staff from the hotel where the Elephant’s Bikers are staying film the group’s arrival.

Joris Fioriti for AFP

Filmmaker battles to save Ghana’s historic cinema

The Rex, a single-storey, slope-roofed movie house was once the hotspot for film fans in Ghana, but, like many of the country’s cinemas, it hardly shows movies anymore.

The building is now abandoned, except on Sundays when dozens of evangelical Christians cram through its century-old walls for weekly, boisterous prayers sessions.

The Rex theatre in Accra, Ghana. (Pic: AFP)
The Rex theatre in Accra, Ghana. (Pic: AFP)

The Rex’s fate is part of a wider decay of film-going culture in Ghana, the first sub-Saharan African country to gain independence and which become the hub for the continent’s film industry in the immediate post-colonial era, experts said.

But a 29-year-old Ghanaian-American filmmaker, Akosua Adoma Owusu, has launched a plucky grassroots effort to save the picture house and fight the trend.

The “save-your-local-landmark” campaign is commonplace in the West but remains a rarity in some developing countries like Ghana.

For Owusu, the motivation behind “Damn the Man, Save the Rex” was partly personal: after building a reputation abroad as a maker of short films, she realised there was nowhere to show her work in the country of her birth.

“Whether it’s short films or performance or anything, you have to kind of pay a venue to screen your work,” Owusu said.

Owusu, who won the best short film award at the 2013 African Movie Academy Awards and whose productions have been added to the permanent collection at the Whitney Museum in New York, managed to raise $9 000 online.

It was enough to hire out the old movie hall for a night and show her latest work.

But she has bigger plans and wants to convert the Rex into a dedicated artistic space.

If “Save the Rex” succeeds and the structure built in the early 20th century by Lebanese immigrants becomes a permanent film-screening venue, it would double the number of functioning cinemas in Ghana’s capital.

Currently, the only working movie theatre is an American-style cineplex embedded in an upscale shopping centre.

But more are planned to serve the country’s growing consumer class, with Ghana boasting one of the world’s fastest growing economies, fuelled by gold and cocoa exports as well as a nascent offshore oil industry.

Experts voiced frustration at the current state of film culture in the west African nation, recalling a time when the head of state personally oversaw the industry.

At independence in 1957, when Kwame Nkrumah was president, “Ghana was the hub for filmmaking in west Africa and generally Africa,” said Anita Afonu, a director and expert of Ghanaian film history.

Nkrumah believed he could shape opinions in the new nation through indigenous films and personally read scripts and viewed pre-release cuts, she added.

The former president, ousted by the military in 1966, had set up the Ghana Film Industry Corporation, which helped aspiring artists access film and editing equipment.

“His ability to change the mindset of Ghanaians … to tell them (they) are equally worth what the white man thinks he is worth… and to be able to teach them to do things for themselves was very, very paramount,” Afonu said.

After the coup, Ghana’s once-burgeoning film industry crumbled. Military rulers imposed curfews in the capital, keeping people indoors and away from cinemas.

The film corporation’s properties were eventually sold to Malaysian investors, who sloughed off the movie theatres to private owners who gradually converted most of the halls to churches.

As in other countries, the proliferation of DVD technology also devastated historic movie houses such as the Rex.

But the impact has been more acute in Ghana, which is flooded by straight-to-DVD productions from Nollywood, Nigeria’s film industry, which pumps out more than 1 000 titles per year.

Mark Amoonaquah, owner of the Roxy in Accra, said he held on as long as he could, showing movies to the dozen or so people who would sit on the outdoor cinema’s faded blue benches.

Ultimately he had to close temporarily, he said, because unless “a strange movie or a very interesting movie” came out, Ghanaians had effectively abandoned going to the cinema.

Owusu’s films bear little of the shaky camerawork and screaming matches that typify Ghana’s current indigenous productions.

Her latest film, Kwaku Ananse, is a semi-autobiographical imagination of an old Ghanaian folktale and was awarded best short film at this year’s African Movie Academy Awards.

Owusu organised a special screening a local French cultural institute for the film’s debut.

Her next work, she hopes, will open at a renovated Rex.

“I think it would be like the mecca, the place to be,” Owusu said. “Who knows? Perhaps it could make a trend of reviving cinema houses all over that are abandoned.”

Nigerian rap artist Ice Prince heads for SA

Local fans of Nigerian rap artist Ice Prince (born Panshak Zamani) will see him joining the likes of JR, Morafe, Reason, AKA, Khuli Chana and Casper Nyovest on stage at Maftown Heights – the Channel O African Music Video Awards pre-concert – on November 29 2013. The rapper hopes to scoop up the Most Gifted African West award at the awards ceremony the following day for his song Aboki.

Ice Prince will be competing in that category with the likes of D’Prince, R2Bees, D-Black, Chidinma and P-Square. The rapper released Aboki (Remix), a song he describes as the “biggest African collision ever”, in January. The song features Ghana’s Sarkodie, Nigeria’s Mercy Johnson, Wizkid and MI, and South African Motswako rapper Khuli Chana.

Ice Prince launches his sophomore album Fire of Zamani on November 23 at the Eko Hotel in Lagos, Nigeria. He says American rapper Wale and UK rapper Chipmunk, who feature on the album, will perform at the launch.

Ice Prince. (Pic: Supplied)
Ice Prince. (Pic: Supplied)

Rhodé Marshall speaks to Ice Prince ahead of the Channel O Music Video Awards.

What do you think is the relevance of indigenous language in giving hip-hop in Africa a unique, exportable identity?
It is the thing that draws the ear of the international audience first, most times even before they get into the music. Whether it be the accent or the language. That’s what separates our sound from the rest of the world and defines who we are and what our music represents.

What are you looking forward to most about performing at Maftown Heights this year?
I’m looking forward to rocking with artists from the area because it’s really about time we start getting together with avenues like this as African artists. And of course to just rock it and share my music with my fans on that side. It’s a blessing.

Do you view Nigeria differently now that you have travelled around the world?
I see myself as a Nigerian and my music is purely a representation of my country. But I draw a lot of inspiration from elsewhere and my experiences divine my music more so than ever.

What are your thoughts on how Nigerian music is received around the world?
It is amazing. You don’t understand how big it is until you travel. I was recently in Canada and I heard our music playing. In Vancouver? That is how far our music has travelled and how huge it is now.

You won the 2013 BET Best African Act Award – what was it like receiving that nod?
Along with it came a lot of pressure. It puts a large task on your shoulders. Everything I do has to be done with 200% now. The honour of the award has made me more focused.

What does Aboki mean?
Aboki is a Hausa word meaning “friend”. The song celebrates everyone. Whether you are rich or poor, we are all friends.

You’re days away from officially releasing your second album, Fire of Zamani. What’s different this time around?
I dug a little deeper this time when I wrote songs for this album. I’m speaking more from the heart this time. I worked 10 times harder to bring the best melody and best rhymes.

Why Fire of Zamani?
I heard the phrase “fire of zamani” on 2Face’s Unstoppable album. I got that from a 2Face song and decided that it has to be my album name. I think it suits me quite well.

Which South African artists’ music have you been enjoying?
L-Tido, Da Les, AKA, Khuli Chana, Mafikizolo and a lot more.

Rhodé Marshall is the Mail & Guardian’s Project Manager.

Ghana’s poor eke out a living from toxic e-waste

Johnson Amenume (45) and his son Kingsley, (14) busily sort through a scrap heap. With their bare hands and a couple of large stones, they break open a television set.

Next to them smolders a pile of cables they have set on fire in order to burn off the plastic coatings. Thick black smoke billows, but father and son go about their work unperturbed, caked in soot and dust.

They work on one of world’s largest electronic garbage dumps, located in Agbogbloshie, a slum near the central business district in Ghana’s capital Accra.

More than five million pieces of second-hand electronics arrive in the West African nation annually, mainly from Europe, the United States and China, according to a 2012 report by Ghana’s Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

Those not in working condition – about three-quarters of the shipments docking at Accra’s main port – are dumped at Agbogbloshie, the EPA says.

Over the years, the landfill has morphed into a toxic graveyard containing tens of millions of discarded electronics, or e-waste.

It has also become a source of income for the poorest of the poor who search for recyclable metals, like aluminium, copper and iron, that they sell to scrap dealers for a few cents.

Environmental and health risks
More than a quarter of Ghana’s 25-million people live under the poverty line of 1.25 dollars a day, according to World Bank data.

About 40 000 of them, including young children, live in the slum next to the dump and eke out a living from toxic e-waste.

“I lost my job as a security guard five years ago. The only way I can feed my family is by sorting through scrap. My son stopped going to school to help me,” explains Amenume, who hails from the village of Alakple, in the country’s north-east.

“We know we can get sick from the smoke. But if we stop working here, we won’t have anything to eat,” he adds.

Burning the plastic off wires and cables releases dangerous chemicals that pose serious environmental and health risks. Some of the toxins interfere with sexual reproduction, while others can cause cancer and hamper development of the brain and nervous system.

John Essel, a medical doctor at the Tano clinic just two streets from Agbogbloshie, says he examines at least a handful of people who work on the dump each day.

“They report with skin rashes, abdominal pain, sleeplessness and fatigue. We also see cardiovascular diseases,” he says.

Ghana is a popular high-tech dumping ground because it has no laws that prevent the import of e-waste.

It usually enters Ghana marked as second-hand goods for resale or donations, but “some foreign traders label broken goods as second-hand to avoid high recycling costs in their home markets,” the UN Office of the High Commissioner for Human Rights warned in July.

ewaste
A Bill to outlaw the importing of e-waste is being tabled in Parliament. (Pic: Reuters)

Legislation
Ghana’s EPA is now demanding the practice be halted.

“We are lobbying government to pass a law to make the import of e-waste illegal,” says EPA deputy director Lambert Faabeluon.

The Bill has been tabled in Parliament. Deputy Environment Minister Adiku Heloo said it might be passed into law before the end of the year.

“We are hoping to find a lasting solution to the menace,” he says.

The idea is not only to regulate e-waste imports but also set up sustainable e-waste management systems that will create long-term employment.

Until then, Ghana’s poor will continue to hunt for scrap metals that earn them a mere 25 dollars per 100kg.

“On a good day, I make about 30 cedi [10 dollars],” says Kofi Adu, while digging in a heap of broken computers.

The 18-year-old dropped out of school two years ago to support his ailing mother. Even if a law was passed later this year, Abu knows it’s too late for him to realise his dream: “I wanted to become a medical doctor, but now it’s totally impossible. – Sapa-dpa