Category: Perspective

From Sydney to Somalia: My journey home

In November last year, I made my way to Dubai airport to catch the early African Express flight to Mogadishu. To my surprise, several other Somali-Australians who I knew at home in Sydney were already in line, waiting to board the same plane.

One woman had brought her two teenage sons with her. It would be their first visit home. I couldn’t help but chuckle as I recognised the fear and irritation etched on their young faces. I wore the exact same look seven years ago when I made my first trip to Mogadishu from Sydney. I lived in the city for a year, and was now returning for a short visit.

While waiting to board, I got into an argument with a random man who tried to trick me into checking in a mysterious box of ‘dates’ under my name to Mogadishu. I refused but he kept insisting. My friend yelled at him and he hurried off. I still wonder what exactly was in that box of alleged dates.

The group of women I was travelling with cheered as we stepped off the plane at Mogadishu International Airport. They did what homesick citizens would do: they posed for photos under the Somali flag. An airport official immediately began yelling at us to move on. It was the start of the first pointless argument out of a series of pointless arguments I had to witness in Somalia.

The sun was blistering hot on my skin and I was uncomfortable in my abaya. I never wore it back home, and it seemed ridiculous and restrictive in this heat. I awkwardly tried not to trip over it as I hurried into the arrival lounge. As I queued with the rest of the passengers, I was told I was in the wrong line. A weird feeling passed over me as I realised I was being directed to the foreigners’ queue. There is something humbling about arriving in your home country, the land of your birth, and having to wait in the foreign citizens’ line. Indeed, I was a foreigner who could not tell left from right in this city; a foreigner whisked away as a toddler only to return when it suited me. I left Somalia in the nineties during the outbreak of the civil war and emigrated to Australia with my parents and siblings.

I paid US$ 50 for my foreigner visa, and stepped outside, right into the arms of my uncle and father. I wrestled myself away from the eager taxi drivers offering to provide a lift and followed my family out of the airport. I stopped abruptly as an envoy of African Union tanks passed by,  followed by a truck full of Somali soldiers. The African Union troops are in the country to bring peace and order after a long and brutal civil war. This envoy would become a frequent sight during my stay. As I looked at them in bewilderment, one of the Somali soldiers cheekily winked at me. My uncle was quick to reprimand him. I smiled, shook my head and made my way towards our car where my grandfather was waiting for me. I was home.

Street life in Mogadishu. (Samira Farah)
Street life in Mogadishu. (Samira Farah)
mogadishu2
A food and hangout spot. (Samira Farah)

We snaked our way through rush hour traffic as we drove from Mogadishu to Balcad, my family’s home town that’s an hour’s drive away. The drive gave me a chance to get reacquainted with the city. Some things were exactly as I had left them: the noise, the smells, the goats and donkeys stopping traffic, the war-torn buildings brimming with people. But there were also new sights: soldiers in uniform, a myriad of construction projects competing with each other, people counting money in public, the Turkish flag waving proudly from various buildings, teenagers texting away on their smartphones. There were school children in their brightly coloured uniforms walking in groups to catch the bus home; elderly men sitting under trees for shade, quietly sipping on tea; the constant yelling of bus drivers trying to hustle passengers into their vans.

Mogadishu is a noisy city. It has to be. Everything in the city happens while the sun is up. You get a sense of frantic energy but at the same time nobody is in any real rush. The people here subscribe to the philosophy “whatever happens, happens”.

I noticed that every woman and even young girls were now wearing either the burka or jalabeeb (head-to-toe burka). I left Somalia after a one-year stay in Mogadishu in 2005, before the Islamic Court and before al-Shabab. In that time – which honestly feels only like months to me – it seemed like the bodies and behaviour of Somali women changed. The traditional baati (long dresses) were replaced with head-to-toe jalabeebs. I stared at the women wearing them. In turn they stared at me.

Women dressed in jalabeebs. (Samira Farah)
Women dressed in jalabeebs. (Samira Farah)

As we made our way out of Mogadishu, we stopped at a government-run checkpoint. I was quite familiar with militia-run checkpoints from my last visit, so this was a welcome change. Then I remembered that I was carrying a large amount of US dollars on me. I froze. As I got out of the car, I fumbled and quickly hid the money in a hole inside my handbag. I had no idea if my money would be taken but I decided it was better to be safe than sorry. The Somali female soldier went straight for my handbag and then my wallet. I stared at her blankly as she examined them and tried not to smile. She let me go.

This checkpoint manned by Somali and Ugandan soldiers became a daily ritual for me as I shuttled between Balcad and Mogadishu. The men were searched in the open while the women were privately body-searched by female soldiers. I started a curious relationship with a Somali female soldier who nicknamed me Camerista. Whenever she saw me coming, she would yell, “Camerista! My friend!”

Halfway between Mogadishu and Balcad, a group of soldiers stopped our car to catch a lift. I was taken aback but not completely surprised at their nerve to barge their way into our car. One of the soldiers tried to chat to me but my uncle sternly put a stop to it. “Don’t concern yourself with girls that are not concerned with you, how about you do the job you are paid to do!” It doesn’t matter if you have a knife or an AK-47, my uncle will put you in your place.

I chuckled, closed my eyes and took a nap. When I woke up, I was in Balcad, the home of my father, his father, and his father’s father.

This is the first of a series of posts by Samira Farah about her recent visit to Somalia. She is a freelance writer and events organiser based in Sydney, Australia. Visit her blog at brazzavillecreative.com

Voting for a better Kenya

At 7am on Monday morning, 45-year-old Maurice Otunga wheeled his wife, Nelly, into the Moi Avenue Primary School polling station in the heart of Nairobi.

Nelly sat patiently in her wheelchair. There was a huge smile on her face. She was eager to cast her vote in Kenya’s first general election since the promulgation of a new Constitution in 2010.

Nelly embodies the hopes of a country at a crossroads – a peaceful election in Kenya opens up new and enticing possibilities, but a chaotic poll could unleash immense suffering. Having voted in the 2007 general elections and witnessed the bloodshed that followed the disputed results, she is well aware of this. Some 1300 Kenyans died in the post-poll fighting, and hundreds of thousands were uprooted from their homes.

Nelly doesn’t want a repeat of that devastation. She’s more concerned about a peaceful election than about which candidate wins.

“I want peace even if my candidate of choice loses,” she tells me after casting her vote.

She hopes that Kenyans will remember that the country is bigger than any of the eight candidates who have presented themselves for the top job in the country. The heavy presence of police officers at the polling stations gives her hope that any incidences will be dealt with.

Maasai tribes-people leave after voting in Ilngarooj, Kajiado South County, Maasailand. (AFP)
Maasai tribes-people leave after voting in Ilngarooj, Kajiado South County, Maasailand. (AFP)

Nelly makes a living from hawking. She wakes up at 6am to prepare her kids for school and then she heads to city centre to sell her wares. On a good business day, she makes KES2000 (approximately R200).

This morning she opted to come to the city from her home in Banana Hill, just 20km north of Nairobi, not to hawk but to make a date with destiny.

Unlike the scores of voters already waiting their turn at the polling station, Nelly was able to jump the queue because of an arrangement put in place by the Independent Electoral and Boundaries Commission for people with disability.

“I am voting for the sake of my three children so that they don’t end up being a hawker like me. They [must] get an education. I am doing this for their future,” says Nelly. “I have never had hope like today because the new Constitution recognises people with disability and guarantees our rights. For the first time we will have representatives in Parliament. I hope our leaders will implement this Constitution fully.”

Polling stations across the country opened at 6am. Queues stretched for kilometres and it’s likely that voting could go on past 5pm, which is when the polling stations are scheduled to close. Since the government declared Monday a public holiday for voting, the usually bustling city of Nairobi was a ghost town. Streets were deserted and supermarkets, chemists, coffee houses and restaurants remained closed.

A voter puts a ballot paper into the senatorial box at a polling station in the country's western province in Kakamega. (AFP)
A voter puts a ballot paper into the senatorial box at a polling station in the country’s western province in Kakamega. (AFP)

With a few hours to go, many polling stations are still teeming with people. A voter takes up to seven minutes each to cast his/her vote. Each person is issued with six ballot papers – they are expected to vote for a president, governor, senator, MP, women’s representative MP, and a county representative.

When it comes to the presidential seat, the battle is between two of the eight contenders. Uhuru Kenyatta, the son of Kenya’s founding father Jomo Kenyatta, is slugging it out with Prime Minister Raila Odinga. Uhuru and his running mate William Ruto are among four Kenyans facing charges of crimes against humanity at the International Criminal Court. They were reported to The Hague after a commission led by appeal court judge Philip Waki named them as those who bear the greatest responsibility for the post-election violence in 2007 that Kenyans are still recovering from.

Back in her home in Banana Hill, Nelly is hoping that this election will result in a better country instead of more violence.

Jillo Kadida is a Kenyan journalist based in Nairobi.

The day we buried my father

Red dipladenia: a shrubby climber with glossy leaves and red funnel-shaped flowers. A lively, you-bring-the-sun-out plant.

Last summer, I purchased such a plant for a friend’s garden. Immediately after paying for the plant at the florist’s, a female customer behind me said: “I bought the same a couple of weeks ago to place on my mother’s tomb.” I almost keeled over. Was I committing a faux pas? Not at all. Dipladenias are hardy, low-maintenance plants. All they need is moist soil, good drainage, and bright light. They are good for graveyards and friends’ gardens.

My father is buried at Langata Cemetery on the outskirts of Nairobi. It never occurred to us to check the weather forecast for Langata Cemetery on the day of the burial. It poured and poured after we had tossed the requisite clods of soil on the casket, after the grave diggers had covered the grave and each member of the family had placed a solitary rose on the mound of earth. It would not have made any difference if the weatherman had predicted a squall with a sustained wind speed of 70km/hr. We would still have done what was required of us: lay to rest our beloved pater.

Langata Cemetery is not a place to go to for an afternoon stroll. It would never cross a sane Kenyan’s mind to do so, even if there was no  horrendous Nairobi traffic to contend with, even if one did not have to work one’s way through the huge cemetery, past a few well-kept graves, past a plethora of unkempt graves, past cemented graves, grassy graves, weedy graves, fenced-in graves, graves with wobbly wooden crosses.

The day we buried my father, I forgot my grief for a while and smiled when I saw soft drinks and bottled water vendors. Mourners also get thirsty after standing for a long time under the unrelenting equatorial sun as the priest invokes heaven’s mercies and sometimes drones on and on. Mourners also appreciate a bit of shade, so there were white marquees for rent. Lest we forget, dying is a thriving business – for the living.

General assumption has it that only those without a home (aka land) upcountry are buried in the city, specifically in Langata. Further assumption has it that those buried in Langata are rootless. Their origins are lacking. They were born in Nairobi, more’s the pity.

When my father, before passing on, asked to be buried in Langata, a small tremor ran through the extended family. “But why, oh why?” people murmured. But, whispers ran, he had land (aka roots and origins) upcountry where he was born, raised, and educated. Why was he breaking away with tradition? The explanation given was that it would be easier for his immediate family to visit the grave in Nairobi than upcountry. Secondly, it is impossible to sell land with family graves on it, one does not even dare to think about it.

Now, I am a city brat. I grew up and was educated in Nairobi. Upcountry, our drinking, washing, and bathing water came from a domestic rainwater reservoir. Paraffin and Tilley lamps and candles lit up our evenings. City Brat going upcountry was an epic event. She would be the one groping the walls instinctively at dusk, searching for the light switch. She would be one who would want to iron out a top but couldn’t. She would be the one longing for a hot shower instead of bathing from a plastic basin of warm water. And she would peer into her glass of drinking water trying to see if there was any unclear and present danger in it. She never got used to cooking with a jiko, a charcoal stove with zilch knobs to adjust the heat, or a paraffin stove (oh, the headache-inducing odour!).

City Brat had attended her fair share of upcountry weddings and funerals during the rainy season. There were only five words to describe her impressions of the events: mud, mud, lots of mud. Red mud under your shoes, red mud on your shoes. Red mud on the hem of your skirt, red mud on your trousers. Red mud in the car, lots of red mud under the wheels of the car. Loose red mud, squishy red mud, sticky red mud.

City Brat was eternally grateful to her father for his request to be buried in Langata.

Never once in my childhood and growing-up years did the family ever go to visit and tend to my grandparents’ and various relatives’ graves. I have no idea what happened to my maternal grandmother’s homestead, where she was laid to rest, but I do know that her legacy to my mother was a bunch of bananas from hwell-kept, weedless garden.

Graves are places my family never goes back to.

My father was wrong in his assumption that we would faithfully visit his final earthly abode: no one has made the effort to beat the traffic on the road — also called Langata – that leads to the cemetery. It does not behoove us to grab a matatu – Nairobi’s garish, raucous, travel-at-your-risk-but-what-a-ride! public transport minibuses – and we certainly do not walk with guilt stamped all over our faces since visiting family graves is neither an inherited trait nor a passed-down practice.

But surely my father, a sage, must have known that we would fall terribly short when it came to grave-visiting-and-tending matters. I can only conjecture that deep down in his soul, he, too, was a city brat and would say that a dipladenia clambering up a garden trellis is a beautiful sight to behold.

Jean Thévenet, a work-at-home mum, was born and raised in Kenya. She now lives in France and blogs at http://hearthmother.blogspot.com.

 

Hanging out in the heart of Jo’burg

I spent two years at Wits University without ever venturing out into Braamfontein. Shameful, I know. Back then, in 2009, I referred to it as ‘town’. I didn’t differentiate between this place and the undesirable stories I’d heard of Hillbrow. I was a sheltered, suburban South African teen with a penchant for pop music who never walked more than 1km from her home. I had no idea about Braamfontein’s vibrant history as a student destination, packed with coffee shops and eclectic students, or the time when the revolving restaurant still was a restaurant. Basically, I thought Braamies was dodgy so I avoided exploring it.

That changed in 2011 when I got a job off campus at University Corner. Then my access to the ‘safe haven’ of the Matrix (the university’s student mall) was cut off. It was a 20-minute walk plus a ten-minute wait to get overpriced and average food in town. I had to venture down Jorissen Street – and now I don’t regret it.

Before the Neighbourgoods Market (originally a parking garage, now a popular Saturday hangout to get homemade breakfasts and vintage clothes from), before the Puma Social Club (Jozi’s new ‘it’ venue) and Velo cafe, there was the McDonald’s on Jorissen Street. I’d step out of my office and practically run to McDonald’s on my first few trips there, hoping to get back in one piece. Before this I’d never been in the thick of the CBD at lunch time. The first obvious thing I noticed was that it’s dazzlingly cosmopolitan. Students scattered everywhere, school boys cat-calling me, plenty of ‘suits’ and even a McLaren parked on the street.

The Nelson Mandela Bridge connects Braamfontein to the city centre. (Madelene Cronjé, M&G)
The Nelson Mandela Bridge connects Braamfontein to the city centre. (Madelene Cronjé, M&G)

I soon realised that I’d missed out on the feel of living in a city. It’s not the same as living in the suburbs – it’s more alive, more electric, more human, here. Despite my reservations about the CBD, I knew that crime is rife in the suburbs too, so in retrospect I don’t really know what I was so afraid of. We live in Africa, yet we spend our time in traffic jams of 4x4s and tree-lined streets of The Parks, a group of upper-middle class suburbs scattered towards Sandton. I’ve always thought I lived in a city but this – ‘downtown’ Jozi – is the city.

There’s a huge inner-city revival going on in Braamfontein, a part of the CBD that’s home to more students than you can count. South Point , a property investment company, has taken over and revamped many of the buildings into chic but cheap student accommodation, and scattered bars around their Lamunu Hotel (which warrants a visit).

Over the past few years, Braamfontein has been transformed into a haven for hipsters. You can enjoy a great cup of well-priced coffee while enjoying the art on display at Velo,  then visit the Wits Hospice store which is nothing like a charity shop, and, if you’re a photography lover,  pop into the Lomography Embassy at 70 Juta. It’s hipster’s paradise in the inner city, and a coffee in my hand and fashion on tap is my idea of heaven.

You'll find art, coffee, furniture, fashion in the shops that line 70 Juta. (Madelene Cronjé, M&G
You’ll find art, coffee, furniture and fashion in the shops that line 70 Juta. (Madelene Cronjé, M&G)

The nightlife in Braamies is also steadily growing. When acclaimed South African rock band Shadowclub made the line-up at the Puma Social Club a few weeks ago, the queue to get in was nearly a block long. Hundreds of 20-somethings waited for hours to be entertained (and to Instagram their experience).

To me, Braamfontein is where the charm is. It’s a place where anyone, even yuppies clutching onto their handbags, can feel at home. The next time you’re driving through the city, park your car, get out, and walk. Take in the cacophony of traffic, the busy sidewalks, the mix of people and shops . You’ll get,  like I did, that this is an African city.

Zaahirah Bhamjee runs the women’s interest blog completedisbelief.co.za. She’s based in Johannesurg and spends her days juggling work and blogging. Connect with her on Twitter.

Libya: The long road home

I’m still trying to make sense of it. There are days when it doesn’t feel real, days when I can’t quite convince myself that it happened. It is on these days that I find refuge in the past, in the years of political asylum around which my entire life has been framed, the time when all we wished for was freedom. Be careful what you wish for, they warn. But of course, this has never stopped us from wishing.

I was born to a Libyan man and a Libyan woman who decided early on that as long as a madman ruled Libya with a bloody fist, we simply could not live under his thumb, and neither could we accept that fate for our aunts, uncles, cousins and countrymen. My father brought his young wife and my older sister to California in 1974 on a student visa to study soil science and agriculture in America’s big and bright universities. I was born in the same state. After a brief return to Libya, we moved back to America in 1981, and we would never return to Libya again. At least, not as a family. Not with Dad.

My father, a gregarious, witty, passionate Libyan from the mountains of Gharyan, joined the National Front for the Salvation of Libya (NFSL), one of the first and largest of the dissident organisations against Muammar Gaddafi. When we thought he was on graduate school field trips to California, he was actually in Chad, recording sessions of a pirate radio program where he played the role of “The Patient Pilgrim” – clippings of erratic Gaddafi speeches interspersed with my father’s colloquially scathing commentary. My grandmother, unaware of his dangerous political activities, listened religiously to these programs – a rare voice of clarity in a country ruled by maniacs – oblivious to the fact that the outrageous firebrand reducing the “Brother Leader” to a political punch line was her errant son who could never give a good reason for why he hadn’t returned home for a visit. I witnessed many of these long-distance phone calls as a child – my mother wringing her hands, my father rubbing his forehead as my grandmother’s pleading voice came over the scratchy line. “Why haven’t you come home? How long do I have to live? I will take my last breath before I see you again.” “Soon, soon, Insha’Allah (God willing),” he would promise, again and again. He could not tell her why he couldn’t come home. And “soon” would turn out to be a broken promise.

Hend's father and uncle.
My father (L) with Uncle Ali, a family friend.

We couldn’t go back even for a visit, of course. The Libyans who would join the NFSL would be branded “wild dogs” by Gaddafi, their members hunted down and assassinated, their families in Libya financially punished, imprisoned, hanged. Libyans living abroad avoided associating with active dissidents even though they were similarly politically aligned, knowing that to be tainted with that association would have very real repercussions back home from Gaddafi’s far-reaching spy network of informants.

But I didn’t know all of this, not in Oregon, swimming in a lazy creek, or swinging from the large oak tree that stood anchored by thick rolling roots in the centre of the graduate school housing where I spent my childhood. At the age of 14, my father moved us from our little collegiate haven to Kentucky, where we joined the larger group of NFSL families living in the heart of Bluegrass Country. It was here that I finally felt I was part of a community of peers. Libyans from Tripoli, Benghazi, Zawya, Misrata, Zintan, Derna – all these names now made familiar by endless news updates from the war – came together after years of displacement as Gaddafi made alliances with previously hospitable government hosts. America was the last refuge. We were corralled, far away from Libya’s immediate borders, just like Gaddafi wanted. The wild dogs were no longer nipping at his heels. But they continued to growl, even as infighting eroded our numbers and Western rapprochement left us without powerful sympathisers, if not allies. And through it all, my father represented all that was good about Libya: dignity, honour, faith and relentless optimism in the face of certain defeat; an optimism born of undying faith in a higher power.

We did not buy a house. Our cars entered our garage within months of their demise. Everything good would be saved for ‘home’. Boxes of plastic flowers, pretty dishes and colourful curtains sat collecting dust and going out of style while awaiting use in the life that was to be lived only in Libya. Existing in a perpetual state of asylum meant that we never really lived life to the fullest, but it also meant that we never lost an integral connection to a country and culture that most first-generation expat Libyans had, despite never having stepped foot in their homeland. Our social gatherings centered around our anti-Gaddafi activities. We signed petitions, drafted constitutions, printed magazines, demonstrated at embassies. In between these efforts, we struggled to deal with the pain of missing family weddings, family funerals, every holiday celebration. Brothers and sisters joined our growing family, even as my hopes for ever returning to a free Libya diminished.

In the end, it would not be Gaddafi that killed my father, but stage 4 glioblastoma multiforme. It was in the cold winter of 1994 that he was diagnosed with an aggressive terminal brain tumour. I was 18 years old, and I had never known anyone who had died. My father would be the first. That’s what happens when you are a political refugee – you miss out on the normal parts of life, the good and the bad, leaving you ill-prepared to deal with them when life happens to you. As the cancer spread, he could not walk unassisted and had to be fed, bathed and cared for around the clock by my stoic mother.

The jarring loss of life as I knew it came into clear focus when I brought up Libya one day, telling him about a demonstration or some such event. He didn’t let me finish. “I don’t care,” he said. I sat stunned, dismayed. This was the man who devoted his entire life to this cause – gave up his olive trees, the sage-covered mountains dotted with grazing sheep, the camaraderie of brothers and sisters, nieces and nephews – and it was all dismissed with those three words I had never heard him utter before. “I am dying, Hend.” Death, the great equaliser, had already shifted his priorities. Gone was my anchor, my motherland, my ancestors, my past, my future – all wrapped up in the single symbol of my identity and raison d’être, my father. My world crashed around me, in a fog of doctors’ visits and physical therapy for a dying man. We buried him 13 months later, next to a small Japanese maple in a cemetery far away from where he was born.

I don’t resent cancer. Cancer kindly gave us over a year to get used to the idea of death. And as it turned out, he never really left. As I grew older and had my own daughter who started asking me “How can I be a Libyan, if I’ve never been to Libya?”, I heard my father’s voice in my answers. I’m sure he smiled when I looked into her eyes and said: “We can’t go back until we stop a bad man from hurting our country, from stealing from her people.”

He sat close to me when I followed the unfolding of events in Benghazi, Tripoli, all the cities where Libyan men and women freed from fear faced Gaddafi’s bullets so that those standing behind them could lead the second charge for freedom. He held me tight as I cried on October 23 2011, when independence was proclaimed in a newly freed Libya. And when I finally returned to Gharyan this summer, after decades of absence, he sat next to me on the rocks along the path to the well he would use to wash up before performing his daily prayers. I scanned the horizon, passing over homes, well-worn paths, twisting olive trees … it was all so familiar. It felt like I’d never left. And I knew, then, that my dad had brought me home.

My daugher Layla sitting next to my father's oldest brother in front of the now abandoned earthen home in Gharyan
My daugher, Layla, with my father’s oldest brother in front of the now abandoned earthen home in Gharyan.

Hend Amry is an artist and freelance writer, living in Doha, Qatar with her husband and two daughters. Follow her on Twitter.