Year: 2013

Home: A place of memory

If I do the maths, I have, over the last five years, split my existence across nine permanent addresses in five countries on three continents, and travelled to several other places in between.

Just as soon as I was getting the hang of the guttural sounds of German and confidently engaging in general pleasantries, I was on my way back to Zimbabwe to reacquaint myself with the hustle of a nation rebuilding after the tempestuous times of 2008.

But barely months into my re-acclimatisation, I had switched borders for South Africa where a world of intricate hand signals for hailing taxis opened up to me. That and the bunny chow special my workmates and I indulged in on far too many of our lunch breaks.

But before getting too much into that comfort zone, I was learning the codes of gauche English etiquette employed aboard the London tube. “No matter what, do NOT make eye contact,” was the instruction that I tried to dutifully abide by.

My most recent expedition was to the US where I was to acquaint myself with yet another new set of rules. It’s a trunk, not a boot, and enunciated ‘t’s – as in asking for a glass of water – almost always lead to a repetition of the request to ensure that it is really English that you have just spoken.

Between all of my trips,  however, I have always touched base with Zimbabwe, living here for a decent number of months at a time.

Thus the question has always been the same upon each return: For how long am I home before I leave again?

Home.

I was seven years old the first time I moved house. A traumatising development for my young mind, the news triggered endless episodes of weeping and fruitless dissuading.

And so it was that on a sunny April afternoon, a giant grey removal truck came through our yard to devour the contents of the only home I had ever known. A home which we proceeded to leave bare, our echoes frightening the lazy specks of dust floating on the spears of sunlight piercing the now-empty space.

Home, for me, was now a place of memory.

(Graphic: Kenny Leung)
(Graphic: Kenny Leung)

Vines of granadilla fruit which twisted their way from our neighbours’ side of the durawall to ours, falling traitorously into our backyard, were no longer to be savoured. Anna, my daily companion and mate from across the fenced side of our property was not to be chatted to anymore, though we promised to start writing each other letters when we could read and write well enough. My mother’s Saturday ritual of cultivating her beds of of nasturtiums, marigolds and petunias was to cease for we moved to a first-storey town apartment with no garden, no granadillas, no Anna.

Home had taught my child’s mind a lot of things.

It was along our home’s long gravelly driveway that I first learnt pain when, aged about four, I pedalled my tricycle too fast down an incline, only to veer off course, overturn and fall into a mess of blood and tears.

Courage was learnt one afternoon, playing outside, when I encountered a snake coiled up between the veranda’s edge and the rain gutter. It was the maid who I would run to in a panic. And it was she who would expertly maneouvre herself around the veranda’s edge, finding the right position from which to smite the reptile’s head with a metal rod that she then used to carry its limp body to the compost heap with, fascinated little me in tow.

Home also taught me about life’s inequalities, particularly as I observed the old man from next door who doubled as maid and gardener for our white neighbours. While my family called him ‘Sekuru’, the madam whose voice always sounded shrilly and insistently from some inner room of the house, preferred to call him ‘Zaka’. I would later learn that this was not even his real name, but merely the name of the area from which he hailed.

I remember once watching him, through the lattice fence, as he meticulously clipped his madam’s lacey underwear onto the clothesline. Upon perceiving me, a look of emasculated shame coloured Sekuru’s features, followed by a command to me to go away and play elsewhere.

Home was the initiator of many lessons I continue to imperfectly assimilate into my being and even today, if I close my eyes, I see and feel it vividly.

With more movements and changes of house throughout my adolescence, I acclimatised to the impermanence of place, even once writing a poem that began with the lines:

“If you start bringing in the boxes

And wrapping and packing up the tea-sets and plates

I’ll know it’s true –

That this is no longer home…”

And perhaps, it is this acceptance that explains my fascination with travel and my frustration with people who fail to appreciate that life is never about fully arriving or leaving.

I left the one place I truly considered my home over 20 years ago. But not fully, for it is a place that still lives within, and a place I recreate, albeit imperfectly, with each new undeserved vine of good fortune that twists it way into my yard, each Anna I encounter whose friendship I accept as being potentially fleeting, even if we do exchange email addresses and promise to stay in touch across continents and time zones.

I am never fully home, but I furnish a semblance of such a dwelling place in every act of courage, in every wince of pain and shame, in every place that allows me to appropriate another room for the house that is my memory.

And with this realisation, the question that has plagued my conscience for far too long has lost its ability to frustrate me.

“How long are you here for?”

The truth is that I am always here; here in the place of memory.

Fungai Machirori is a blogger, editor, poet and researcher. She runs Zimbabwe’s first web-based platform for women, Her Zimbabweand is an advocate for using social media for consciousness-building among Zimbabweans. Connect with her on Twitter

An explosive affair: Harare’s premier arts festival

The experienced traveller in all his passport-stamped and border-crossing glory would be ill-equipped for Zimbabwe, mostly because it is anything but the stereotypical African country some imagine it to be. Power cuts and politics aside, Harare is an ever-vibrant capital city with a nightlife so busy it reinforces the meaning of the city’s Shona name as a place that never rests. The capital remains ever-shifting under the temperate bright blue summer days or the chilly starry winter nights – more so every year in April when the Harare International Festival of the Arts (Hifa) kicks off in an explosive celebration of dance, theatre, music, art and culture. This festival transforms the city into an animal that breathes through drum beats, dancers’ flexed feet, brushstrokes of artists and the voices and footsteps of thousands of festival goers that religiously attend the shows every day.

The theme for this year’s festival – What’s Next: Looking Back / Looking Forward – echoes the sentiments of Zimbabweans: what next for the country and its future? One of the top-selling shows, 51%, may have an answer. This sold-out stand-up comedy show finds common humorous links between disparate or controversial issues like race and gender as well as topics ranging from troubled policemen, nuclear threats and crazy Australian wildlife presenters.

Featuring Michael Kudakwashe, Comrade Fatso and Clive Chigubu, 51% fosters a growing appreciation for stand-up comedy in Zimbabwe. According to Fatso, it allows people to “laugh out loud at our issues”  in a controversial yet humorous performance that combines political satire, wit and clever observation. In true form the performance does have moments where, in addition to laughing, you do look around to see if the ever inconspicuous state secret police will single you out for laughing too hard.

Although shows like 51% may not be directly changing people’s lives, they do inspire people, and form part of a greater collective of cultural activism platforms headed by Fatso’s Magamba Network, the country’s leading hip-hop and spoken word organisation. Such projects range from Shoko, Harare’s first hip-hop and spoken word festival, to the highly popular Zambezi News, a satire comedy show along the lines of South Africa’s ZA News.

The explosive performance by Noisettes on Thursday evening seemed to be the one that most appropriately answered the festival’s question. The band, led by the London-born Shingai Shoniwa and Dan Smith, enthralled a crowd of over 1 500 people with their smash hits Never Forget You and Don’t Upset the Rhythm. The best part of the performance wasn’t even the inspiring, enigmatic Shingai, with her sensual allure, likeability and distinctive neo-soul vocals. It was the collaborations between Shingai and up-and-coming local artists like Hope Masike and the award-winning Chiwoniso Maraire.

Shingai Shoniwa in her element during the Noisettes' performance on Thursday. (Pic: Jono Terry for Hifa)
Shingai Shoniwa in her element during the Noisettes’ performance on Thursday. (Pic: Jono Terry for Hifa)

The collaborations created a unique fusion of sound, mixing Zimbabwean musical instruments like the mbira with electric guitar sounds, creating an eclectic fusion that is so aptly Zimbabwean in nature and sound.  Superb renditions of songs such as Miriam Makeba’s Kilimanjaro and Malaika and remixes of popular tracks such as D’banj’s Oliver Twist were included in the band’s repertoire. “This is a dream come true for me. Zimbabwe, I am home!” said Shingai to a roaring crowd.

We couldn’t have agreed more. If the band’s success is “what’s next” for a generation of Zimbabwean musicians then many more artists may now have the courage to pick up a guitar and play the first chords to what could be the next greatest song. Shingai, we want to be like you when we grow up.


Other Hifa music highlights

Daughters of Legends – Selmor Mtukudzi, daughter of superstar Oliver Mtukudzi, and Nkulee Dube, daughter of  the late reggae icon Lucky Dube, will thrill audiences with their unique sounds of afro-jazz and reggae. Friday May 3, from 10pm to 11pm.

Baaba Maal – The legendary Senegalese musician and guitarist Baaba Maal will be performing with his band. Saturday May 4, from 8pm to 9pm.

Mi Casa – South Africa’s hottest house music band will collaborate with Zimbabwe’s hottest up-and-coming solo female vocalist, Ammara Brown. Saturday May 4, from 11pm to midnight.

Mokoomba – Award-winning Zimbabwean band Mokoomba will close the programme with their vibrant afro-fusion of Tonga traditional rhythms with modern influences. Sunday May 5, from 8.30pm to 9.30pm.

The 14th annual edition of the Harare International Festival of the Arts runs until May 5. For the full programme, see the official website: http://www.hifa.co.zw 

Ethiopia celebrates return of iconic fossil ‘Lucy’

Not even a head of state can expect this kind of reception in Ethiopia.

When two heavy suitcases with the remains of Lucy were brought to the national museum in Addis Ababa on Wednesday, there was no holding back the emotions of onlookers and even journalists.

The 3.2-million-year-old fossil of a female hominid had been on tour throughout the United States for the past five years. Now Lucy is back in her African homeland. A woman wearing traditional African garb even offered a red rose to welcome Lucy’s return.

“There was a feeling of emptiness in Ethiopia while she was away,” said anthropology professor Berhane Asfaw, who has been researching human evolution for the past 30 years. “Lucy is an icon for all the people in the country.”

US palaeoanthropologist Donald Johanson, who made the discovery of the bones in the Afar Triangle in 1974, also did not pass up the opportunity to take part in the welcoming ceremonies.

“Lucy has a message that overcomes all cultural barriers,” Johanson said. “She is proof that the seven billion people in the world all have the same origin and that basically speaking, we are all Africans.”

But this alone does not explain the worldwide fascination for the skeleton of the “Australopithecus afarensis”, a primate closely related to the Homo genus, which includes modern-day human beings. Johanson said he believes people see more than just a fossil in Lucy.

“She is like a person with whom they can identify,” he said. “In addition, there is naturally an extremely attractive name that comes with it.”

A rare find: the skull of a hominid child known as Australopithecus afarensis, who palaeontologists say lived at a key stage in primate evolution more than three million years ago. (AFP)
A rare find: the skull of a hominid child known as Australopithecus afarensis, who palaeontologists say lived at a key stage in primate evolution more than three million years ago. (AFP)

Lucy got her name because on that November night when Johanson’s team discovered the bones, a tape cassette was playing the Beatles’ song Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds.

And what was everyday life like for human-like species back then?

“We assume that Lucy lived in forest areas and was a vegetarian,” Johanson said.

She might have also eaten crocodile and bird eggs, he said, “and she lived more of a nomadic life while sleeping in nests up in the trees as protection against wild animals.”

In her Ethiopian homeland, Lucy is called “dinknesh,” which means the wondrous one. The find was the first proof that our human predecessors could already walk upright 3.2 million years ago.

Although some human-like bones have been found dating back six million years ago, worldwide, it is the name Lucy that has become synonymous with the origin of the human species.

Ethiopia is often mentioned in the same breath as drought and starvation. Its people have long been trying to throw off this negative image, and they have become proud that, thanks to Lucy, the country is also dubbed the “cradle of humanity”.

“There was a huge uproar when she was sent to the United States in 2007,” a taxi driver who gave his name only as Tewodros said. “Many people thought the government had sold Lucy to America.”

Some of the cities in which Lucy was displayed were Houston, Seattle and New York, and the interest was huge. At the same time, the bones were studied further. Now the studies are to be continued in a complex built in the national museum in Addis Ababa.

“The new Ethiopian laboratories meet the highest standards,” Johanson said. “I have no worries whatsoever about Lucy.”

From next Tuesday, the roughly 1-metre tall primate would be unveiled to the public. A five-day special exhibition would make it possible for people to see the original.

After that, however, the skeleton will once again vanish behind thick walls for its own protection. What Ethiopians would have then is a copy of her in the museum – along with the knowledge that Lucy is finally back on her home soil. – Sapa-dpa

You’ve got mail, Somalia

Somalis may soon be receiving letters from abroad for the first time in more than 20 years after a deal was struck with the United Nations’ postal agency – the latest step towards ending Somalia’s isolation following two decades of civil conflict.

But the challenges to bringing the Horn of Africa country back into the global postal community are manifold – there are no functioning post offices, only the main roads are named and most houses do not have a number.

Add to that the ongoing struggle with al-Qaeda-linked insurgents, who still control much of the countryside, and parts of the coastline infested with pirates, and it is clear the UN’s Universal Postal Union (UPU) and its partners have their work cut out.

The Swiss-based UPU said in a statement last Friday that international postal services could start operating again in Somalia within the next few months.

Somalia’s Minister of Information and Communication Abdullahi Hirsi signed a memorandum of understanding with Emirates Post Group this week for Dubai to act as a hub for handling mail destined for Somalia, it said.

(Pic: donovanbeeson/Flickr)
(Pic: donovanbeeson/Flickr)

The UPU, which brokered the deal, said its 192 member countries could resume sending mail to Somalia once the arrangements were finalised.

About 2-million Somalis live abroad and 9.9-million in Somalia, served by a postal network that is “basically inexistant”, the UPU said, having dwindled from 100 post offices in 1991.

UPU spokesperson Rheal LeBlanc said Somalia had created an office at the airport to handle mail moving in and out of the country, initially to service the government, embassies and universities, “but they seem to have plans to phase in postal services across the country over the next few months and years”.

Hirsi said his country would need help getting the post going again.

“We ask for all means of assistance as we have to start from ground zero,” the UPU statement quoted him as saying.

In the latest sign of optimism that Somalia was emerging from its violent recent past, Britain opened an embassy at Mogadishu airport last week after its previous mission closed in 1991 as civil war broke out. – Reuters